The ice cream cone. A seemingly simple invention, yet a delicious and portable treat enjoyed by billions worldwide. But who exactly is responsible for its creation? While many believe the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair marks its official debut, the story is far more nuanced and, surprisingly, has strong ties to Norfolk, Virginia. Unraveling the truth behind the ice cream cone’s origins is a journey through culinary innovation, entrepreneurial spirit, and a dash of historical ambiguity.
The Contenders: A Tale of Two Cities (and More)
The popular narrative points to the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair as the birthplace of the ice cream cone. The story goes that Ernest A. Hamwi, a Syrian concessionaire selling zalabia (a crisp, waffle-like pastry), saw an ice cream vendor, Arnold Fornachou, running out of dishes. Hamwi supposedly rolled one of his zalabia into a cone shape, offered it to Fornachou, and the ice cream cone was born. This tale, popularized by Hamwi himself and later his family, became the widely accepted version of events.
However, this simplistic account overlooks a crucial detail: earlier patents and accounts suggest the ice cream cone’s existence predates the St. Louis World’s Fair. This is where Norfolk, Virginia, enters the picture, adding a layer of complexity and local pride to the ice cream cone saga.
Enter Italo Marchiony: A Patent Prior to St. Louis
Italo Marchiony, an Italian immigrant who arrived in the United States in the late 19th century, is a key figure in the pre-St. Louis ice cream cone narrative. Marchiony sold ice cream in New York City, initially from a pushcart and later from multiple stands. Frustrated with the cost and waste associated with glass dishes (which were often broken or stolen), Marchiony sought a more efficient and economical solution.
In 1903, a year before the St. Louis World’s Fair, Italo Marchiony was granted U.S. Patent No. 746971 for a “mold for making ice-cream cups.” This patent described a machine for baking edible cups from batter, designed specifically for holding ice cream. While these weren’t exactly the cone shape we know today, they were undoubtedly edible, individual containers for ice cream, marking a significant step towards the invention of the cone.
Marchiony’s invention wasn’t a spontaneous act of necessity during a crowded fair; it was the result of deliberate innovation driven by a practical business need. He mass-produced these edible cups and sold them with his ice cream, gaining a competitive edge.
The Norfolk Connection: The Thorner Brothers and the Doumar Legacy
While Marchiony’s patent establishes an earlier claim to edible ice cream containers, the Norfolk connection centers around the Doumar family and their purported invention of the “cone” as we commonly recognize it. Abe Doumar, a Syrian immigrant, is credited by his family with inventing the ice cream cone in 1896, eight years before the St. Louis World’s Fair.
According to family lore, Abe Doumar, at the age of 16, was selling paperweights at the 1904 St. Louis Exposition (note the discrepancy in date from the later popularized story). He supposedly helped an ice cream vendor who had run out of dishes by rolling a waffle-like pastry (similar to Hamwi’s zalabia) into a cone shape. However, the Doumar family claims this event happened earlier and outside St. Louis. The significant factor is that Doumar is credited for the cone’s shape, which significantly evolved after Hamwi’s contribution.
The Doumar family’s story differs significantly from the Hamwi narrative. They maintain that Abe had already been making and selling ice cream cones in Norfolk, Virginia, for years before the St. Louis World’s Fair. They emphasize that the fair merely provided a larger platform for him to showcase his already-established product.
The key aspect of the Norfolk connection is the Doumar’s ongoing legacy. Doumar’s Cones & BBQ in Norfolk, Virginia, still operates today, using the original four-iron waffle machine Abe Doumar brought back from the St. Louis World’s Fair (or, as the family claims, used before). This machine, a tangible link to the early days of ice cream cone history, is a point of pride for the family and a symbol of Norfolk’s potential role in the cone’s invention.
Challenges to the Norfolk Claim
Despite the Doumar family’s compelling story and the presence of Doumar’s Cones & BBQ as a living testament to their legacy, substantiating Abe Doumar’s pre-1904 ice cream cone production with concrete documentation remains a challenge. Oral history, while valuable, is subject to the passage of time and the potential for embellishment.
Furthermore, pinpointing the exact moment and location of the ice cream cone’s invention is difficult because the concept likely evolved over time. Multiple individuals, including Marchiony, Hamwi, and Doumar, contributed to its development, each building upon existing ideas and technologies.
The Evolution of the Ice Cream Cone: A Collaborative Effort
The truth about the ice cream cone’s invention is likely a combination of different contributions, making it a story of evolution rather than a singular “Eureka!” moment. Italo Marchiony provided the initial breakthrough with his patented edible cups, addressing the practical need for a disposable ice cream container. Abe Doumar (according to his family’s history) may have been an early adopter and popularizer of the cone shape itself, possibly independently developing the idea in Norfolk. Ernest Hamwi certainly played a role in popularizing the ice cream cone at the St. Louis World’s Fair, helping to spread its appeal to a wider audience.
The St. Louis World’s Fair served as a catalyst, bringing together these individual efforts and accelerating the ice cream cone’s adoption. The fair’s atmosphere of innovation and experimentation created a fertile ground for new ideas to flourish, and the ice cream cone, whether invented there or merely popularized, certainly benefited from this environment.
The Role of Technology and Mass Production
The development of efficient waffle-making machines was crucial to the ice cream cone’s widespread availability. Early cones were likely made individually, a time-consuming process that limited production. As technology advanced, automated machines allowed for the mass production of cones, making them affordable and accessible to the general public.
The Thorner brothers, for instance, were among the many early inventors who sought to improve cone-making technology. Their patents and innovations contributed to the evolution of the cone from a hand-rolled pastry to a standardized, mass-produced product. This evolution was a gradual process, involving numerous inventors and entrepreneurs who each played a role in shaping the ice cream cone we know today.
Norfolk’s Place in Ice Cream History: A Matter of Interpretation
While definitively proving that Abe Doumar “invented” the ice cream cone before the St. Louis World’s Fair remains a challenge, Norfolk’s connection to the story is undeniable. Doumar’s Cones & BBQ stands as a testament to the family’s legacy and their claim to an early involvement in the cone’s development.
The city’s historical ties to the Doumar family and their ongoing business contribute to Norfolk’s unique place in ice cream history. Whether Abe Doumar was the sole inventor or simply an early adopter and popularizer of the cone, his story adds a layer of intrigue and local pride to the broader narrative.
Remembering the Legacy: Doumar’s Cones & BBQ
Doumar’s Cones & BBQ, a Norfolk institution, continues to operate using the original waffle machine brought back from St. Louis (or used before, as the family contends). This machine, a tangible link to the early days of ice cream cone history, serves as a constant reminder of the Doumar family’s contributions.
Visiting Doumar’s is more than just enjoying an ice cream cone; it’s experiencing a piece of culinary history. The aroma of freshly made waffle cones, the sight of the antique machine in operation, and the stories shared by the Doumar family create a unique and memorable experience.
Conclusion: A Sweet and Complex History
The invention of the ice cream cone is not a simple story with a clear-cut answer. It’s a complex narrative involving multiple individuals, technological advancements, and a dash of historical ambiguity. While the St. Louis World’s Fair played a significant role in popularizing the treat, earlier contributions from Italo Marchiony and the potential early adoption by Abe Doumar in Norfolk, Virginia, complicate the narrative.
Ultimately, the ice cream cone’s creation was likely a collaborative effort, with various individuals contributing to its evolution. Whether Abe Doumar invented the cone or simply brought it to Norfolk early, his legacy lives on through Doumar’s Cones & BBQ, solidifying Norfolk’s place in the sweet and complex history of this beloved treat. The story continues to be a delicious blend of innovation, entrepreneurship, and local pride, leaving a lasting taste of the past in every bite.